Container gardening is absolutely brilliant because it’s accessible, flexible, and honestly, once you understand the basics, it’s actually easier than gardening in the ground. The trick is knowing which pots to use, what to fill them with, and crucially, which plants will actually thrive rather than survive.
I’ve been growing things in containers for over three decades, and I’ve helped thousands of gardeners,who have made every mistake going while learning. It still surprises me when I’m presenting on Garden Rescue how many beginner gardeners and homeowners fail with planting in pots!
Beginner Container Gardeners Who Have:
The good news is that once you understand the fundamentals, container gardening is one of the most rewarding ways to garden. You can move plants around, experiment without commitment, and create stunning displays even if all you’ve got is a balcony or a doorstep.
Container gardening gives you complete control over your growing environment. You choose the compost, you control the watering, and you decide where each plant lives. This is fantastic if you’ve got rubbish soil in your garden, or no garden at all.
The other beauty of container gardening is that you can garden in the smallest of spaces, such as balconies, or, if you’re renting a property, you don’t have to leave all your beloved plants behind when you move. Container gardening is also where most beginner gardeners start off.
I know, at 7 years old, it’s where I started. But beware, you will soon look for more space and start planting in the ground too!
Plants in pots can thrive in ways they never would in your actual ground, especially if you’re dealing with heavy clay or chalky soil. Thats because you can choose the exact compost for pots which opens up near endless planting choices!
But there is one golden rule to remember when gardening with containers, Ninjas.
Plants in containers are completely dependent on you.
In the ground, plant roots can search for water and nutrients. In a pot, they’ve only got what you give them. This means container gardening requires more attention than border planting. You’re essentially keeping plants on life support, and you’re the life support machine. Miss a few waterings in summer, and you’ll have crispy casualties. Forget to feed them, and they’ll sulk and stop flowering.
The biggest mistake beginners make is thinking container gardening is low maintenance. It isn’t. It’s a high reward, but it needs regular care. Get that in your head now, and you’ll avoid disappointment later.
Let’s start with pots themselves, because this is where loads of people go wrong straight out of the gate. Walk into any garden centre, and you’ll see hundreds of pots in every size, material, and price point.
The single most important thing to understand is this: bigger is almost always better.
The reason is quite logical. A larger pot holds more compost, which means more water retention and more nutrients. It also gives roots more room to grow, which means healthier, happier plants.
I see so many beginners buy those dinky little pots because they’re cheap or cute, then wonder why their plants are constantly wilting and looking miserable.
Small pots dry out faster than you can blink, especially in summer.
| Plant Type | Minimum Pot Size | Ideal Pot Size & Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Annual Bedding Plants (Petunias, begonias, geraniums, marigolds) |
20cm diameter (8 inches) 2-3 litres capacity Will work but dry out quickly in summer |
25-30cm diameter (10-12 inches) 5-7 litres capacity Better moisture retention, less frequent watering needed. Allows plants to reach full flowering potential without becoming stressed. |
| Mediterranean Herbs (Basil, parsley, coriander, mint) |
15cm diameter (6 inches) 1-2 litres capacity Suitable for short term growing only |
20-25cm diameter (8-10 inches) 3-5 litres capacity For basil and parsley, choose deeper pots (minimum 18cm deep) as they develop extensive root systems. Shallower pots acceptable for thyme and oregano. |
| Woody Herbs & Small Shrubs (Rosemary, lavender, sage, thyme) |
25cm diameter (10 inches) 5-7 litres capacity Adequate for first year growth |
30-35cm diameter (12-14 inches) 10-15 litres capacity Woody herbs like rosemary and lavender need room for established root systems. Terracotta works brilliantly as it prevents overwatering. |
| Perennial Plants (Hostas, daylilies, heuchera, ornamental grasses) |
25-30cm diameter (10-12 inches) 7-10 litres capacity Small varieties only |
35-45cm diameter (14-18 inches) 15-25 litres capacity Hostas prefer wide, shallow pots rather than deep ones. Allow 5-8cm space between root ball and pot edge. Miniature hostas can manage in smaller 2-3 litre pots. |
| Vegetable Plants (Tomatoes, peppers, courgettes, aubergines) |
30cm diameter (12 inches) 10-15 litres capacity Minimum for dwarf varieties |
40-45cm diameter (16-18 inches) 20-30 litres capacity Standard tomatoes need at least 30 litres. One plant per pot. Deeper is better than wider for vegetables with extensive root systems. |
| Compact Shrubs (Hydrangeas, azaleas, camellias, Japanese maples) |
35-40cm diameter (14-16 inches) 20-30 litres capacity Young plants only, 2-3 years maximum |
45-60cm diameter (18-24 inches) 40-60 litres capacity Compact hydrangea varieties need minimum 40cm pots. Standard varieties require 50-60cm. For long term growing, bigger is always better. Repot every 3-5 years. |
| Small Trees & Large Shrubs (Dwarf fruit trees, bay trees, ornamental trees) |
45cm diameter (18 inches) 40-50 litres capacity Bare minimum, not recommended |
60cm+ diameter (24+ inches) 80-100+ litres capacity Dwarf fruit trees on dwarfing rootstocks need minimum 60cm pots (80+ litres). Standard trees are unsuitable for containers long term. Heavy pots essential for stability. |
| Salad Crops & Quick Growing Veg (Lettuce, spinach, radishes, spring onions) |
15cm diameter (6 inches) 1-2 litres capacity Individual plants |
20-30cm diameter (8-12 inches) 5-10 litres capacity Shallow troughs or wide containers work brilliantly. You can grow multiple plants together in larger containers. Radishes only need 10-15cm depth. |
| Climbers & Vining Plants (Clematis, climbing roses, sweet peas) |
30cm diameter (12 inches) 10-15 litres capacity Temporary only |
40-50cm diameter (16-20 inches) 30-50 litres capacity Climbers have extensive root systems. Deeper pots better than wide shallow ones. Add trellis or support at planting time, not after. |
| Bulbs (Daffodils, tulips, lilies, alliums) |
20cm diameter (8 inches) 3-5 litres capacity 5-7 bulbs per pot |
25-30cm diameter (10-12 inches) 7-10 litres capacity Layer different bulbs at different depths for extended flowering. Minimum 15cm deep for standard daffodils and tulips. Group bulbs for impact, don’t plant singly. |
For annuals like petunias or bedding plants, aim for pots that are at least 20 to 25 centimetres in diameter. Anything smaller and you’ll be watering twice a day in hot weather.
For perennials, shrubs, or anything you want to keep long term, go for 30 centimetres minimum, and bigger if you can manage it. Tomatoes need at least 30 centimetres, preferably 40. Fruit trees in pots want 50 centimetres or more.
I know big pots cost more, and they’re heavier to move around. But trust me on this one. A plant in a properly sized pot will give you months of gorgeous growth with relatively little fuss. A plant crammed into a too-small pot will give you nothing but stress and disappointment.
| Pot Size | Diameter (Top) | Height | Typical Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| P9 (9cm) | 9cm (3.5″) | 8-9cm | Young plants, herbs, bedding plugs. Small perennials and shrubs in early growth. Cheapest option for hedging. |
| 1 Litre | 13cm (5″) | 11cm | Small shrubs, herbaceous plants, climbers. Poinsettias and cyclamen. Good for potting on young plants. |
| 2 Litre | 17cm (6.5″) | 13cm | Standard size for most perennials and shrubs. Best value for money. Plants establish quickly with immediate impact. |
| 3 Litre | 19cm (7.5″) | 15cm | Larger perennials, established shrubs. Popular garden centre size. Slightly more mature than 2 litre. |
| 5 Litre | 23cm (9″) | 18cm | Mature shrubs, small trees, roses. Larger bamboos and spreading plants. Good instant impact. |
| 7.5 Litre | 26cm (10″) | 21cm | Established shrubs, specimen plants. Semi-mature growth with strong root systems. |
| 10 Litre | 28cm (11″) | 22cm | Large shrubs, small to medium trees. Good for immediate border filling. Hedging plants for instant screens. |
| 15 Litre | 32cm (12.5″) | 27cm | Young standard trees (2-3 years old). Large established shrubs. First size for ornamental trunk standards. |
| 20 Litre | 34cm (13.5″) | 27cm | Mature specimen shrubs, rhododendrons, conifers. Smaller trees. Feature planting for instant effect. |
| 25 Litre | 38cm (15″) | 30cm | Established trees and large shrubs. Significant root development. More mature specimens. |
| 30 Litre | 40cm (16″) | 32cm | Larger trees and mature shrubs. Good for instant landscaping impact. Well established root systems. |
| 40 Litre | 50cm (20″) | 45cm | Large feature trees and shrubs. Expensive but provide immediate mature appearance. Heavy and difficult to move. |
| 50 Litre | 52cm (20.5″) | 46cm | Semi-mature trees. Commercial landscaping. Several years of nursery growth. Professional use mainly. |
| 70-100 Litre | 55-65cm (22-26″) | 48-55cm | Mature specimen trees. Very heavy. Require machinery to move. Significant investment for instant impact. |
| 150+ Litre | 70cm+ (28″+) | 60cm+ | Fully grown trees. Commercial and landscape projects only. Extremely expensive. Years of nursery cultivation. |
Every single container you use for planting must have drainage holes in the bottom. No exceptions. I don’t care how pretty the pot is or how good the deal was. If it hasn’t got drainage holes, it’s not a plant pot, it’s a plant coffin. You can read what I’ve written about drainage in garden containers here in much more detail.
Plants need air around their roots as much as they need water. When you water a pot without drainage, that water has nowhere to go. The compost becomes waterlogged, the roots can’t breathe, and they rot. You’ll lose the plant within weeks, guaranteed. I’ve seen it happen hundreds of times.
If you’ve fallen in love with a pot that has no drainage, you’ve got two options. Either drill holes in the bottom yourself (works for plastic and some ceramic pots, though be careful not to crack them), or use it as a decorative outer pot with a proper plastic pot with drainage holes sitting inside it. Never plant directly into containers without drainage. It’s one of the biggest killers of container plants, especially for beginners who tend to overwater anyway.
Some pots come with just one small hole. That’s often not enough, especially for larger containers. More holes mean better drainage and healthier roots. If you’re buying new pots, look for several decent-sized drainage holes, not just a token effort.
You’ve got loads of choices when it comes to pot materials, and they all have pros and cons, and I’ve written about them extensively in my guides over the years. As a beginner gardener, you’re going to be faced with the three main contenders: plastic, terracotta, and those bargain 3-for-20-quid ceramic pots at garden centres. Let me show you what to look out for!
Plastic is lightweight, cheap, and retains moisture well. This makes it brilliant for beginners because you don’t need to water as often. The downside is they’re not the most attractive, though you can get some decent-looking ones these days.
Plastic also degrades in sunlight over time, becoming brittle and cracking. But for the price, they’re hard to beat, and they’re perfect if you need to move pots around regularly, but do read my guide on gardening without plastic to know the full truth about plastic in the garden.
Terracotta looks gorgeous, and it’s porous, which means excess moisture can evaporate through the sides. This is great for plants that hate wet feet, like lavender or Mediterranean herbs. But here’s the thing: terracotta dries out incredibly fast in hot weather.
You’ll be watering daily, possibly twice daily in peak summer. They’re also heavy, breakable, and can crack in hard frosts. I love terracotta for the right plants in the right situations, but they’re not ideal for beginners who might forget to water.
Glazed pots give you the best of both worlds. They look smart, they hold moisture better than terracotta, and they’re more frost-resistant. The glaze seals the ceramic so you’re not losing water through the sides.
They’re heavier than plastic and more expensive, but they last for years, and they look professional. For a patio or front door display where appearance matters, glazed ceramic is worth the investment.
For more advice on choosing materials for different garden situations, my coastal gardening guide covers how different materials cope with harsh conditions.
This is where a lot of beginners come unstuck. You cannot use garden soil in containers. It compacts, it doesn’t drain properly, and it often contains pests and diseases. You need proper potting compost, and there are different types for different jobs.
This is your standard, everyday compost that works for most container plants. It’s relatively cheap, widely available, and does a decent job for annuals, bedding plants, and vegetables.
Multi-purpose compost is usually peat-free these days (which is better for the environment), though peat-free versions can dry out faster and be harder to re-wet once they’ve dried completely. For beginners on a budget, multi purpose is absolutely fine for most things.
John Innes is a loam-based compost that comes in different strengths: Number 1 for seedlings, Number 2 for general potting, and Number 3 for mature plants and shrubs. It’s heavier than multi-purpose, which means pots are less likely to blow over, and it holds nutrients better over time. Loam is a fancy term for well-balanced soil, so this compost is far heavier than multi-purpose. It’s more expensive but lasts longer.
I always use John Innes Number 3 for anything that’s staying in a pot long term, like shrubs, perennials, or fruit trees. It costs more than a multi-purpose, but it’s worth it for permanent plantings.
You’ve also got ericaceous compost for acid-loving plants like rhododendrons, azaleas, and blueberries. These plants will either struggle or eventually die in regular compost because they need acidic conditions for them to uptake key nutrients. There are also hundreds of specialist blends for bulbs, orchids and there’s also cactus compost with extra grit for succulents, and seed compost for starting seeds.
Don’t overthink it though. For most container gardening, you can get by with a multipurpose mix for annuals and John Innes Number 3 for everything else.
There are loads of debates about whether you should add crocks or gravel to the bottom of pots to improve drainage. Honestly, if your pot has good drainage holes and you’re using decent compost, you don’t need it. The drainage holes do the work, not a layer of stones.
In fact, adding gravel can sometimes create a perched water table where water sits above the gravel layer rather than draining away.
That said, if you’re using very shallow pots or you’ve got a plant that absolutely hates wet roots, a thin layer of gravel or broken terracotta can’t hurt. Just don’t fill a quarter of your pot with stones, thinking you’re helping. You’re just reducing the space available for compost and roots.
Right, let’s get to the fun bit. What should you actually grow? The good news is that most plants can grow in containers if the pot is big enough. The bad news is that some plants are absolute weapons in pots, while others will always struggle.
There are some plant types that were born to live in containers and pots. Mainly plants that are annuals or need our help in the form of greenhouses to survive. The first are Tomatoes, which are container superstars. They thrive in pots, produce heavily, and can be moved to the sunniest spot.
Peppers and chillies are the same. For vegetables, salad leaves, radishes, spring onions, and dwarf beans all work brilliantly, which is why so many container gardeners start with vegetables.
Herbs are probably the easiest container plants for beginners. Basil, parsley, coriander, thyme, and rosemary all do well, though remember that Mediterranean herbs like rosemary and thyme prefer drier conditions. Strawberries love containers too and make for both beautiful ornamental plants (their flowers are super cute), but then they fruit too!
| Plant Name | Why It’s Great for Beginners | Minimum Pot Size |
|---|---|---|
| Tomatoes (Cherry varieties) | Prolific producers, easy to grow, incredibly satisfying. Just need regular watering and feeding. | 30-40cm (12-16 inches) |
| Basil | Bombproof herb that grows fast. Perfect for sunny windowsills and thrives with regular picking. | 20cm (8 inches) |
| Lettuce & Salad Greens | Ridiculously easy from seed. Harvest leaves as you need them and they keep producing. | 15-20cm (6-8 inches) |
| Petunias | Flower for months, tolerate heat brilliantly, and come in loads of colours. Very forgiving. | 25cm (10 inches) |
| Radishes | Ready in less than a month. Great confidence booster for new gardeners. Trouble free. | 15cm (6 inches) |
| Peppers (Sweet & Chilli) | Thrive in containers with good drainage. Compact varieties are perfect for beginners. | 25-30cm (10-12 inches) |
| Geraniums (Pelargoniums) | Drought tolerant, long flowering, and virtually indestructible. Perfect for hot spots. | 20-25cm (8-10 inches) |
| Hostas | Stunning foliage, love shade, and easier to protect from slugs in pots. Very low maintenance. | 30cm (12 inches) |
| Spinach | Simple to grow from seed. Pick baby leaves or let them mature. Doesn’t mind cooler weather. | 20cm (8 inches) |
| Begonias | Brilliant for shade. Flower continuously and need minimal fussing. Very reliable. | 20-25cm (8-10 inches) |
| Mint | Grows like mad (which is why pots are perfect to contain it). Tolerates sun or partial shade. | 20cm (8 inches) |
| Coleus | Gorgeous foliage in sun or shade. Modern varieties are incredibly easy and colourful. | 20-25cm (8-10 inches) |
| Lavender | Loves containers, especially terracotta. Drought tolerant once established. Smells amazing. | 25-30cm (10-12 inches) |
| Bush Beans | Compact, productive, and don’t need staking. Ready to harvest in weeks. | 25cm (10 inches) |
| Fuchsias | Perfect for shade and hanging baskets. Flower continuously from spring to autumn. | 20-25cm (8-10 inches) |
For flowers, petunias, geraniums (pelargoniums), begonias, fuchsias, and busy lizzies are all bombproof container plants that flower for months. Dahlias in pots are absolutely spectacular if you deadhead them regularly.
Lavender works well in containers, especially in terracotta, as long as you don’t overwater, as lavender loves both full sun and free-draining conditions. For more flowering options, check out my red flowering plants guide and cottage garden perennials articles for container-suitable varieties.
Hostas are brilliant in pots because you can protect them from slugs more easily. Japanese maples look stunning in containers and actually prefer the root restriction but you do need a good 20lt pot and above for them to be happy.
Shrubs like hydrangeas, camellias, and pieris all work well in very large pots. Small fruit trees, especially those on dwarfing rootstocks, can produce really well in 50-centimetre pots. Again, opt for 20 lt or, if you can, 50 lt pots on wheels for anything larger than a Hebe!
Deep-rooted plants like carrots and parsnips need really deep containers to develop properly. They’re possible, but tricky for beginners. Large shrubs and trees that aren’t specifically bred for containers will eventually outgrow even big pots and become stressed.
Anything that needs constant moisture, like astilbes or gunnera, will drive you mad in containers because they dry out too fast.
| Plant Name | Why It Struggles in Containers | What to Do Instead |
|---|---|---|
| Peonies | Deep taproots can’t develop in shallow pots. They refuse to flower and become stunted when confined. | Plant in a permanent sunny border where they can stay undisturbed for decades. |
| Delphiniums | Heavy feeders and drinkers needing cool, moist soil. Pots heat up too fast and they become top heavy and topple over. | Plant in deep, fertile garden soil where you can keep them consistently moist and cool. |
| Lupines | Long taproots hit the bottom of containers and have nowhere to go. Stunted growth and few flowers result. | Give them a permanent spot in well drained garden soil where their taproots can dive deep. |
| Baptisia (False Indigo) | Massive taproot system that resents disturbance. Confined pots stress the plant constantly. | Plant in open ground in a sunny, well drained spot and leave them alone for years. |
| Asparagus | Needs huge underground space for its extensive root system. Container grown asparagus produces tiny, pathetic spears. | Plant in raised beds or deep trenches in the garden. Wait two years for first harvest but worth it. |
| Sweet Corn | Grows too tall, needs to be planted in blocks for pollination, and has massive root systems. Yield is rubbish in pots. | Plant in garden beds where you can grow several plants together for proper pollination. |
| Pumpkins & Winter Squash | Massive spreading vines need loads of space. Heavy feeders that exhaust container soil quickly. | Grow in garden beds where they can sprawl properly. Save containers for compact bush varieties. |
| Watermelons & Cantaloupe | Deep root systems, wide spread (need 5 feet), and slow to flower so they exhaust nutrients. Heavy fruit needs support. | Plant in garden beds with rich soil. If you must use containers, go for 60 gallon pots minimum. |
| Full Sized Carrots & Parsnips | Long taproots need deep soil to develop properly. Shallow containers produce stunted, deformed roots. | Either grow in very deep containers (45cm minimum) or stick to round varieties like Parmex. |
| Rhubarb | Enormous root system and fleshy spreading roots that hate confinement. Becomes stressed and stops producing. | Plant in deep, rich garden soil where it can establish a massive crown. Lasts for 20+ years in ground. |
| Bamboo (Running types) | Incredibly vigorous and aggressive. Even in pots it tries to escape and becomes pot bound rapidly. | Only grow clumping bamboo varieties in huge pots, or plant running types with root barriers in ground. |
| Standard Fruit Trees (Full size) | Massive root systems need 30 cubic metres of soil. Trees survive rather than thrive, declining after 5 years in pots. | Only grow dwarf varieties on dwarfing rootstocks in containers. Standard trees need planting in ground. |
| Oak Trees | Fast growing with enormous root systems. Become unstable and stressed in confined spaces. Not suitable for any pot. | Plant in open ground only. These are forest giants that need proper space to develop. |
| Silver Birch (Standard) | Grows too large and vigorous for long term container life. Roots become pot bound and tree struggles within a few years. | Plant in garden beds. If you must have birch in pots, choose specifically bred dwarf cultivars. |
| Standard Cherry Trees | Don’t have enough root space to produce fruit properly year after year. Decline quickly in containers. | Only grow dwarf cherry varieties on Gisela rootstocks in very large pots (60cm minimum). |
Plants with massive root systems or vigorous spreading habits, like bamboo or mint (ironically, mint is often grown in pots to contain it, but it needs constant attention and regular potting on).
Rhubarb is a classic that I see new kitchen gardeners attempt to grow in containers, but it’s so hungry it often dies after a few years and looks lacklustre, so it’s always best planted in the ground.
Let me save you some heartache by running through the mistakes I see all the time.
This kills more container plants than anything else. Beginners think they’re being kind by watering every day, but most plants don’t need it, especially in spring and autumn. Stick your finger in the compost. If it’s moist two centimetres down, you don’t need to water yet. Only water when the top few centimetres are dry. Different plants have different needs, but as a general rule, it’s better to underwater slightly than overwater.
We’ve covered this, but it bears repeating. Small pots are a false economy. You’ll spend more time watering, your plants will be stressed, and you’ll get poor results. Go bigger from the start.
Compost contains enough nutrients for about six weeks. After that, you need to start feeding. Use a liquid feed every week or two during the growing season.
Tomato feed is brilliant for flowering plants, not just tomatoes. Plants in containers can’t search for nutrients like plants in the ground can. If you don’t feed them, they’ll stop growing and flowering.
Not all plants suit all locations. Sun loving plants like petunias and tomatoes need at least six hours of direct sun. Shade lovers like fuchsias and hostas will scorch in full sun. Match your plants to your available light. Don’t try to force sun lovers into shade or vice versa. For more on this, my garden design tips cover how to assess your space properly.
Old compost is exhausted, compacted, and often full of pests and diseases. Always start the season with fresh compost. You can add old compost to borders or your compost heap, but don’t reuse it in containers. Your plants deserve better.
Watering is the single most important task in container gardening. In summer, large pots might need watering daily. Small pots might need it twice a day. The key is to water thoroughly when you do water. A little sprinkle on top does nothing. Water until it runs out of the drainage holes, ensuring the entire root ball gets moist.
Early morning is the best time to water. The plants have all day to use the moisture, and less water is lost to evaporation. Evening watering is fine too, though it can encourage slugs. Avoid watering in the heat of the day, as you’ll lose loads to evaporation, making it inefficient and a waste of resources. Only water pots in the day or full sun if they look like they have wilted or need life support!
Consider getting a watering can with a rose (the sprinkler head). This distributes water gently and evenly. For lots of containers, a hose with a spray gun attachment saves time and your back.
Feeding is the other crucial task that beginners often neglect. Start feeding about 6 weeks after planting, and continue every 1 to 2 weeks through the growing season. Use a balanced liquid feed for general growth, or a high potassium feed (like tomato food) for flowering and fruiting plants.
Follow the instructions on the bottle or the dry feed packet. More is not better when it comes to feeding plants.
Overfeeding can burn roots and cause more problems than underfeeding. I use half-strength feed weekly rather than full-strength fortnightly. This gives a steadier supply of nutrients and reduces the risk of overfeeding.
Stop feeding in autumn as plants slow down for winter. Feeding encourages soft growth that’s vulnerable to frost damage.
Spring is planting time. Use fresh compost, feed after six weeks, and water as needed. Summer is all about watering and feeding. Check plants daily in hot weather. Deadhead flowers regularly to keep them blooming.
Autumn is when you need to think about winter protection. Tender plants need moving to frost-free locations. Hardy plants can stay outside but might need moving to sheltered spots. Winter watering is minimal but don’t let pots dry out completely, especially for evergreens.
Growing in pots and containers is one of those beginner gardening skills that builds your confidence and gets you hooked on growing your own. Once you’ve mastered the basics covered in this guide, you’ll find yourself expanding your garden and probably boring your friends with tales of your pots!
If you want to really get to grips with garden design and create an amazing garden, my Garden Design for Beginners online course covers everything from planning beds to plant selection. Prices start from £29, and I’ll show you exactly how to design gardens that are both gorgeous and productive, just like the award-winning designs I create on BBC Garden Rescue. You can find out more about my online garden design courses here.
Garden Design Examples for Small Gardens: 30 Design Templates & Planting Plans: In this online gardening course, I’ll walk you through 30 fantastic garden designs, explaining the logic behind the layout, the plant choices, and take-home tips for applying them in your own garden.
Learn how to transform and design your own garden with Lee Burkhills crash course in garden design. Over 5 hours Lee will teach you how to design your own dream garden. Featuring practical design examples, planting ideas and video guides. Learn how to design your garden in one weekend!
Garden Design for Beginners Online Course: If you want to make the career jump to becoming a garden designer or to learn how to design your own garden, this is the beginner course for you. Join me, Lee Burkhill, an award-winning garden designer, as I train you in the art of beautiful garden design.
Lee Burkhill, known as the Garden Ninja, is an award-winning garden designer and horticulturist with over 30 years of gardening experience and 15 years as a professional garden designer. A qualified RHS (Royal Horticultural Society) professional, Lee specialises in sustainable garden design and practical horticultural advice. He designs and presents on BBC1’s Garden Rescue and in leading gardening publications. Lee combines three decades of hands-on gardening knowledge with professional design qualifications to help gardeners create beautiful, functional outdoor spaces.
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